Category: Country Living
Buy these great books! Published by me at Norton Creek Press. | ||||
Fresh-Air Poultry Houses by Prince T. Woods More Information |
![]() Success With Baby Chicks by Robert Plamondon More Information |
One Survivor by Robert Plamondon More Information |
Ten Acres Enough by Edmund Morris More Information |
![]() Tom Slade, Boy Scout by Percy K. Fitzhugh More Information |
Raccoons Cause Trouble, For a While
by Robert
If you've had chickens for a while, you loathe raccoons. If not, you will. Here's why:
A while ago we started losing 1-3 chickens a night. Some were completely eaten, others barely touched. This is one of the more infuriating aspects of predators: they don't have an "off" switch. Instead, they keep killing until they run out of targets.
In the wild, their prey scatters and the predators only get one or two victims. But a fox or a raccoon that squeezes into a closed henhouse will kill your entire flock.
That's one reason I use open housing — no doors, and one side open — so the chickens can scatter. (Open-front housing has other advantages, which you'll see when you read Fresh-Air Poultry Houses.)
How did the raccoon get in, in spite of my electric fence? Different ways, it appears. There was only one well-defined game trail, but when I adjusted the electric fence so that anything using it would surely get zapped, the losses continued. Raccoons have no fear. A dog or coyote that gets zapped by an electric fence will never come near it again, but raccoons will prowl it endlessly, looking for spots where it can squeeze under. They can squeeze pretty flat, and if you put the fence wire too low, it shorts out. Farming sounds so easy! But I'm sure you agree that farming is no panacea.
When adjusting the fence didn't work, I set snares. Snares are pretty easy to use, and by placing them only on game trails heading towards your all-night chicken buffet, you can see how they can be very selective, nabbing only the miscreants. After a few nights of nothing, we caught a single raccoon. And the losses stopped.
All that carnage from one smallish animal? Don't tell me Nature is kind!
In the bad old days, there was a Federal bounty on just about anything that moved, including raccoons. And old-timer told me that the bounty and the price of pelts paid for his pack of coon hounds. One result was that chicken and sheep farmers had little to fear from predators.
When the bounty dried up in the Seventies, so did the hunting and trapping, and the raccoons, bobcats, and coyotes became an ever-increasing threat. Even since I started raising chickens in 1996, things have gotten much worse. Benton County keeps cutting the amount they're willing to chip in as matching funds for the Federal predator control program — which only targets animals that are actively killing livestock — with predictable results: If you don't learn all about electric fences and snares, your chickens are goners. It's almost as bad in town as it is in the country!
2 comments
It would not surprise me if different populations of raccoons have different skills, passed down from mother to offspring and by raccoons observing each other.
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Rats on the Pasture!
by Robert
Karen and Dan were moving a batch of pullets from the brooder house onto the pasture one evening, and saw three rats scurrying around. You know what that means: if you see three in the open, there must be thirty in hiding somewhere!
We usually don't have much trouble with rats on the pasture. Our chicken feed is in big galvanized range feeders outdoors, and we move the feeders each time we refill them. Any rats who take up residence in tunnels under the feeders have their tunnels exposed when the feeders are moved. Something — probably owls — takes care of the rest.
Only it's not working right now. Natural pest control is great when it works, but when it doesn't, now what? That's the problem with farming. You do the same thing over and over, but the results are different every time!
Well, whatever you believe about "live and let live," you have to draw the line at a rat population explosion. Their population can balloon really fast, and you can't have them overflowing from the pasture into the house! So it was time to take steps.
The simplest method of dealing with rats on a pasture occupied by hens (barring the use of a sniper rifle and a night-vision scope), is to use rat poison in tamper-proof bait stations. Now, I don't like using poison any more than you do, but this is a good example of Plamondon's Law: "The alternatives are even worse."
Bait stations are basically plastic boxes that creatures larger than a rat can't get into. On the better bait stations, the bait is secured one way or another to prevent the rats from carrying it off and possibly leaving it somewhere inappropriate. They have to eat it right there in the bait station, where any crumbs won't cause trouble.
(I also looked up the poison in question, and it's a lot more toxic to rats than it is to chickens, not that the chickens will get any exposure to it with the spiffy bait stations I use.)
I have some J. T. Eaton 903CL Rat Fortress bait stations, which I like very much. They have a clear lid so you can see if the bait needs to be replaced, which is a great feature. They're surprisingly hard to find. [Update: an Alert Reader found them at FarmTek.com — a good outfit that I've done business with many times.] Except for the clear lid, the Motomco rat bait station below seems to be equivalent.
I use the Tomcat brand bait blocks, which are weatherproof one-ounce cubes with a hole in the middle, so you can thread them onto a retaining wire that keeps the rats from walking off with them.
I put three bait stations on the pasture four nights ago, each next to a feeder. I didn't expect much activity, since the feeders were full, but I figured that when the feeders went empty, the rats would switch to the bait. The next morning, though, all the bait had been eaten! The rats preferred it to chicken feed and whole corn, apparently. The next night, almost all the bait had vanished again (one bait station was relatively unvisited). The next night, the same. Last night, some bait was left in all of the stations. [Update: The bait is no longer being eaten at all.]
I think this means that the rat population is starting to dwindle. In the past, I've used bait stations around the house, brooder houses, and barn, and the pattern was the same: initial interest in the bait, followed by lessened activity and a distinct absence of rodents that sometimes lasted as long as a year.
(By the way, if you are of the opinion that "rats are something that happen to other people," you will eventually be proven wrong. Sadly, they're likely to strike your brooder house first, and kill a lot of baby chicks. You don't want that! I recommend using bait stations or snap traps in your brooder house when it's not in use, or bait stations outside it all the time. Having your helpless baby chicks killed by rats is just too heartbreaking.)
You want to get the good bait stations. I just bought some cheap ones, and I regret it now. Too flimsy and insecure. I'm probably going to throw them away and buy some of the ones above.
By the way, there is now an organically certified rat poison. Is that weird, or what?
2 comments
But that's the thing. You can see how, if I had waited much longer, there might have been vastly more rats, which would have required vastly more poison and been vastly more of a hazard to the chickens.
I've heard of people locally who waited too long, and when they finally did something about the rats, the stench of their decaying bodies under the floorboards of the barn made it impossible to go inside. It's much better and safer to deal with these things early!
What Kind of Grass is Best for Chickens?
by Robert
If you're wondering what kind of grass is best for grass-fed chickens, the answer is, "green grass."
What I mean is, lush green grass is loaded with vitamins and is has lots of available nutrients, but as it fades to brown, it becomes more and more useless to chickens. Chickens aren't ruminants and can't digest cellulose, so it's the soft, green, palatable grasses that count.
Lush spring pasture is the best, of course, and that's easy enough. The trick is providing green grass year-round, or close to it. Cool-season grasses will stay green all winter in mild climates, and warm-season grasses will stay green all summer when the cool-season grasses have all browned off.
Wheat and oats make great pasture for poultry until they die in the summer. Perennial fescues aren't my favorite grasses, but they hold up well year-round, and (as it turns out) poultry don't mind endophytes the way cattle do, so the biggest black mark against fescues simply isn't relevant with poultry.
I've even heard good things said about crabgrass as a poultry grass!
And let's not forget clovers. In a lot of climates, Ladino clover is considered the best, partly because it provides good nutrition (vitamins and protein, but few calories, just like grasses), and partly because its season is later than most grasses, giving lots of summer greenery when the grasses have faded.
So, remember, focus on stuff that stays green first, and worry about the details later, if at all. Most henyards will require a mix of species for long-season greenery.
And for the complete word on green feed for chickens, you'll want to read Feeding Poultry by G. F. Heuser. Heuser was a poultry science professor at Cornell University, and he wrote this poultry nutrition book right at the tipping point — just after poultry nutrition became fully understood (with the discovery of vitamin B12), but just before the move to factory farms. So the book has a small-flock, traditional mindset that matches the mindset of today's dedicated hobbyists and farmers like us, while still being modern and trustworthy. And it has a whole chapter on green feed! It's a big book, very detailed and thorough, and (unlike more recent books) was written with the intelligent layman in mind. This book can open up new horizons, while saving you from the many feeding blunders that people make.
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How to Select Pullet Chicks at the Feed Store
by Robert
Sure, you want to buy baby chicks this year, but what if you only want pullet chicks? None of those nasty crowing roosters? If so, you're like a lot of people. Corvallis, for example, has an ordinance forbidding roosters in town, but hens are okay.
The problem is that the feed stores normally have straight-run chicks. That is, boys and girls together. What do do? Time's a'wasting, since the baby chicks will hit the stores in a couple of weeks.
Learning chick sexing is difficult and disgusting. See this video from Dirty Jobs if you don't believe me!
Well, that was fun, but what does it have to do with do-it-yourself chick sexing at the feed store? I'll tell you. The feed store will have at least one of these breeds for sale:
- Rhode Island Reds
- New Hampshire Reds
- Production Reds
All these breeds have something in common: The chicks with chipmunk stripes on their backs are females! Well, maybe not all, but at least 95%. And if you pick only the ones with well-defined chipmunk strips, it's more like 100%.
Most people don't know this, so the chicks aren't likely to have been picked over by other customers. Just make the clerk pick out the ones with the racy stripes because "they're pretty," and don't take no for an answer. Voila! Sexed chicks at straight-run prices!
(People have asked me, "What do you mean, 'chipmunk stripes'?" You'll know 'em when you see em. Most of the chicks won't have any stripes down their backs at all. On some, the stripes on their backs will be faint, and others, they'll be clear. Get the ones with the most clearly defined stripes.
And if you think that's clever, you ain't seen nothing yet. It's one of the least useful facts in my book, Success With Baby Chicks. Just by reading this book, you become a chick-rearing expert. Imagine how much more pleasure you'll get when you're completely successful every time.
I read hundreds of poultry books, extension bulletins, research papers, and magazine articles when researching this book, stretching from 100 years ago to the present day. I discovered many useful facts and techniques that have been forgotten, like the chipmunk-stripe trick. And it's all been reduced to 155 clear and straightforward pages. You will reap the rewards of my years of work in a couple of hours!
Buy the book before you get your chicks, so you know what to do, not what you should have done.
7 comments
I haven't tried it, but was told this on a plane. The guy next to me owns a company that sexes chicks (his dad was brought over by Tyson in the 50's from Japan to do this). I hope I have the top and nestled sex part right. I'd hate to have it backward.
One advantage of buying sex-linked crosses from hatcheries is that they can't get away with putting in so many males "by mistake," so you actually get the pullets you're paying for. In the feed store, of course, you can tell the genders apart easily and select what you want.
The Secret of Success
by Robert
When the economy started nose-diving, I told myself, "During bad times, you want more irons in the fire. This is a great time to expand my publishing business." So I went from four titles to thirteen in about eight months.
I had it all planned out. During bad times, people start yearning for simplicity and more control over their lives, and there's always a back-to-the-land movement. So I published three classic back-to-the-land books: Gold in the Grass, Ten Acres Enough, and We Wanted a Farm. These, I figured, would do very well. I also republished a motley collection of books just because I loved them, though in many cases I felt that maybe no one else would.
So what happened? A couple of my labor-of-love books became mainstays of my publishing business, while the back-to-the-land books have been relatively disappointing. Only Ten Acres Enough was anything to write home about, but even its modest success was eclipsed by Fresh-Air Poultry Houses, which instantly became my #1 seller, and A Thousand Miles up the Nile, which has nothing whatever to do with any of my other books!
So it just goes to show, you never can tell. You have to swing at the ball a lot more times than you hit it, so you should give yourself a lot of at-bats, rather than counting on a home run on the first swing. Heck, I almost didn't publish Fresh-Air Poultry Houses because it's sort of eccentric, but I told myself that it's eccentric in a good way -- charming and thought-provoking, and in touch with natural thinking -- and it's a good thing I did.
Seth Godin has an interesting blog post where he shows a chart by Tim Burton of all his failed projects -- lots and lots and LOTS of them. Even now, only a fraction of his projects actually get released.
So keep swinging, and don't bet the farm on any one venture. Most of 'em won't get very far, but some will.
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In pro sports only a percentage of pitches are hit or passes completed and a mere fraction of those actually score points....as a lifelong sales professional the old saw is "ya gotta get 100 'No's' for every 'Yes'...the biggest rookie mistake that is made in business is, "This is the idea that will change the world!" and you bet the whole farm on it....or dare I say it?
"Don't put all your eggs in one basket!" ( Sorry, I couldn't pass up the opportunity!)
Easy Way To Improve Rural Cell Phone Reception
by Robert
The only cell phone tower near my farm is slowly getting masked by trees as the forest next door grows up, and the cell phone reception in my house is dreadful.
I just bought a Verizon Network Extender and couldn't be happier. This is a device that looks like a wireless access point but acts like a miniature cell phone tower, using your DSL or cable modem to reach the cellular network. Our phones went from zero bars to four! Woo-hoo!
This is a zero-config device: I plugged it in and it self-configured within about 20 minutes. I didn't have to set a single parameter.
And it not only covers the whole house, but extends quite a way beyond it, even to the mailbox on the other side of the road. Generally speaking, reception in the house is worse than anywhere else, so it completely covers the problem area.
The retail price of this technological wonder (called a "femtocell" in the biz) is a wince-inducing $250, but I found a "$50 off All Accessories" coupon online, and, much to my surprise, found a $50 rebate form inside the box that's good through most of January, so it really cost me only $150. There is no monthly fee.
It doesn't handle 3G traffic (though your 3G devices will fall back to the "1X" standard, which it does handle, though slowly). and I don't know if non-Verizon subscribers can roam through it or not. But sure solved my problem!
There are similar devices out there that work with other carriers, plus a wide variety of cellular signal boosters that use an outdoor antenna to talk to the cell phone tower, and an amplifier and an indoor antenna to talk to your cell phones. The main difference is that boosters don't work in areas where you have no signal at all, while network extenders that use your cable or DSL links do.
These devices will probably turn out to be a must-have for rural residents everywhere.
6 comments
Tell the folks at citrix that 'GoToMyPC' is a flat out lifesaver...I use it daily, as I own a Private, members-only fitness Club one hour (via interstate) from my farm with 24 hour access and frequently get my members in when there is a computer glitch, from my computer at home...I am online to my business, remotely, 24/7/365! As a result I now work part-time at my business and am at home on the farm (but still at work!) 3-4 days a week. Way Cool!
This current advise solves one huge problem I've had with very poor signal on my cell (don't want to give out my private home number).
Question_Would it work as well with satellite high speed internet?
As an aside, I also want to compliment you on your recent advise regarding free choice feed with grains and high protein feeds...with the recent frigid conditions I was losing my butt on feed costs (feeding premium blended feed pellet exclusively). Currently it's 6 degrees F (at 8:30 AM) and hasn't been over 32 degrees in a week here in my neighborhood in North Carolina and that particular little piece of advise has reduced my feed costs by 46%! Forty Six Percent!
I am STILL getting 75% egg production from my free range hens, in this terrible weather, and making a profit...AMAZING!
You are blending the best of two worlds-19th century wisdom and 21st century cutting edge technology.
I guess the only fly in the ointment is I don't tell ANY of my competitors about this blog-I don't want them to know my 'secret weapon'-Robert Plamandon!
I am a little ashamed (D*mn little), but solidly in the black.
Thanks in great part to your work we are achieving our dream-5 acres and independence...
Go Free Enterprise!
Go Local Food!
John
I've never tried this, but I looked at sites like http://cellphoneboosterstore.com and there are plenty of products out there.
Back when the kids were small and preferred PBS, which I couldn't get via satellite, we did something like this to get a TV signal. Gene from Gene's Antenna service walked all over the property looking for a halfway decent signal from Portland, planted an antenna there, ran a long cable over to the house, and we had a good picture when I could have sworn it was impossible. Turning a weak signal in one place into a strong one where you need it can be done. Probably if you can get just one bar anywhere near your house, you can turn it into a clear signal throughout your house and yard. My experience with Gene indicates that it would be better to bring in an expert than to do this yourself. Faster and more certain.
Brooding Baby Chicks in Winter
by Robert
Brooding baby chicks in cold weather -- how low can you go?
As it turns out, cold-weather brooding can go very low indeed. Back in the Fifties, when the electric companies were promoting electric brooding as safer, more reliable, and more convenient that the coal and kerosene brooders that folks used to use, one group did a demonstration:
They suspended four heat lamps in a walk-in freezer at a constant -20 F, and brooded a dozen or so chicks there. It was so cold that ice formed on the waterers on the sides away from the heat lamps, but within the circle of light the chicks were snug and comfy and did just fine.
The rule of thumb for overhead heat-lamp brooders is that one 250-watt heat lamp can handle 75 chicks at 50 F. If temperatures are lower than that, subtract one chick for every degree below 50 F. For example, -20 F is 70 degrees lower than 50 F, so you would be able to brood five chicks (75-70=5) per heat lamp. With four lamps, the freezer demonstration could handle 20 chicks!
Stop for a second and realize how much more confidence you have in all-weather chick brooding, now that you've grasped this little-known fact. And that's just a tiny fraction of the chick-raising lore I've collected in my book, Success With Baby Chicks. Don't forget that we all brood chicks in the late winter or early spring, when it's still cold! Baby chick season is upon us, so you need to buy the book now, before the chicks arrive.
3 comments
Turkeys chill easily during the first few days, so using a draft excluder and providing more heat than usual helps.
Other than that, you just do the same things you do for baby chicks, only more so. And use a high-quality turkey starter. They'll die if you feed them cheap chick starter, and won't do so great on a quality chick starter.
I'll be at Mewcon over New Year's
by Robert
I'll be attending the M.E.W. multi-genre science fiction/fantasy/anime/role-playing/whatever convention at the Red Lion in Vancouver, Washington this weekend.
I'm sharing a table in Artist's Alley with Beth McBeth -- I'll be pitching my Heinlein-esque SF novel One Survivor and my role-playing handbook Through Dungeons Deep, and Beth will be displaying her artwork. I'll also be offering free writing and publishing advice to anyone who's interested.
I'm also giving three panel/workshop sessions:
- Self-Publishing for Fun and Profit (12/31, 5 PM)
- Turn Your Hobbies Into a Career (1/1, 11:00 PM)
- Role-Playing Without Rules (1/2, 1 PM)
M.E.W. con is only in its second year, with a projected attendance of just 500 people, so it should be pretty intimate. Anime fandom appears to be the dominant theme, and plenty of people will be attending in costume.
Hope to see you there!
Admission is $40 at the door for all three days (12/31 - 1/2) or $15-$20 for a single day. For more information see the Mewcon Web site.
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(Almost) Christmas on the Farm
by Robert
We have a quiet Christmas on the farm. Sometime after December 20, we cut a tree from the stand of Douglas Fir at the top of our property. Here's a picture from a few years ago:

Gift giving is low-key: we go in for a drama-free Christmas. When I was growing up, the extended family had a rule, which as I recall was: "Gifts for adults can't cost more than ten bucks. Go wild on presents for the kids if you want." The focus on mere token gifts for adults kept the focus on the kids, which, I think, is how it should be.
Christmas dinner is either turkey from our farm, ham from our farm, or sometimes exquisite steaks that a friend sends us. (We don't eat much beef, so it's more of a treat than you might suppose.)
Back when we had goats, the end of the Christmas season was marked by taking the decorations off the tree and giving the tree to the goats as a snack!
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Turkeys Get The Axe
by Robert
It's a busy week for Karen: Monday and Tuesday were spent butchering turkeys, Wednesday is the final farmer's market of the year, Thursday is Thanksgiving, Friday we're all going to Orycon.
Me, I'm putting in a normal work week for the first three days of the week, so I've got it relatively easy.
The weather is cooperating, at least. While we do our poultry butchering at our licensed poultry facility, which of course is indoors (two rooms attached to our big machine shed), freezing weather complicates things. It was sunny and around fifty today, so no problem there.
(While some people extol the virtues of outdoor butchering, I never liked it.)
After the market closes, the farm will drift into winter mode. We have some broilers we'll keep for another week or so before butchering and freezing (they were too small to butcher for the market). After that we'll be down to the egg side of things.
We were doing three farmer's markets per week for a while there. Getting the number down to zero will be pleasant for a while.


03/09/10 04:59:58 pm, 